It is with great sadness that we have to announce that yesterday, May 7th 2018, our faithful friend and servant, Steve’s shopping trolley, passed away. From the promptly performed post-mortem, the cause of demise was confirmed to be catastrophic and inoperable bearing failure. The autopsy was quickly followed by an unceremonious disposal in the nearest ‘poubelle’. We would like to take a moment to appreciate all the hours of service provided since at least 2009 and feel some remorse for any mistreatment we may have been guilty of. Rest in peace little one.
Steve’s period of mourning lasted for approximately two hours including a wake comprising de la biere, du pain et du fromage. After lunch he took off in search of a replacement and returned with a shiny, heavy duty aluminum ‘chariot’.
We have arrived back in France – St Quay Portrieux to be precise. We left Beaucette on a beautifully clear, fairly warm morning. Just as we were about to leave yacht Yunita was returning. They had left about an hour earlier to head to Alderney but decided that the conditions were not good for travelling north but assured us it would be perfect for travelling south – good news for me!!
At 10am on Thursday we slipped our lines and smoothly departed through the narrow gap without having to use the bow-thrusters – see, he does still know how to steer the boat!! The water was quite lumpy along the channel but once we turned south along Little Russel it improved. We knew we would be fighting the tide here but I don’t think we were quite expecting to only be making 0.6 knots at times! It seemed to take forever to pass St Sampson, St Peter Port and St Martin’s Point – it was probably about two hours. After this point we started to experience quite a swell – at least 3m on the side. This was about the time that I remembered that I am not a very good sailor and sat quietly with my eyes closed, sucking Polos. There wasn’t enough wind to use those white flappy things (fortunately as I wouldn’t have been much use), however 185 hp diesel engine performed magnificently – she probably enjoyed the run after sitting idle all of last year!
Due to the direction we had to take and having to leave at high tide we knew the trip would be longer than would normally be the case as we had to fight the tide until about 4 in the afternoon. We averaged about 3 knots/hour for the first couple of hours and we reckon we could have walked to St Peter Port quicker but did improve and in the final couple of hours we were making 8 knots!
I did have to get reacquainted with my flexible friend Fred but just the once and then I was able to assist Steve as and when required. Although there was one time when he had asked me to steer to 195 degrees whilst he checked the engine and made a coffee but on his return I had to admit that I had forgotten the number and was alternating between about 185 and 200 – it wasn’t a real issue given our position, but showed my brain-fuzz! Another down-side of our trip was no sightings of anything exciting – seals, dolphins, whales, just a few guillemots bobbing about!
Once we entered Baie de Saint-Brieuc we lost the Atlantic swell and the boat’s motion returned to something far more palatable. Steve managed to get the lines and fenders set way before the marina entrance which meant less stress for me!! Thanks Stevie!
We had phoned ahead so the marina knew to expect us and they usually send a dory out to guide visiting boats to their berths. As we were planning to stay for two weeks the office staff offered us a quieter berth than the usual visitors’ pontoon, close to the Capitainerie (marina office). Steve made the call on the VHF and we were met by a friendly chap in a red rib who led us to our berth – le ponton d’honneur – translated by us to be the Pontoon of Honour! And judging by the view from their webcam it certainly is!! Click on this link for live picture.
Once settled in we poured a glass and decided we couldn’t be bothered to cook anything – even though Guernsey had very kindly given Steve a leaving gift of one final lobster that morning.
After a good night’s sleep we decided to investigate the area – mainly to find a supermarket as Steve had purposely run down his wine stock – given the difference in price. We had a pleasant walk with just a small incline and found both Carrefour and Lidl. We stocked up on wine and bought some bread and cheese (French!!) and wandered back. Because of the incline it might well prove more beneficial to walk to the supermarket again rather than take the bikes, just as long as Steve’s little trolley copes with the cobbles.
Our first proper cooked meal in France this time was traditional fragrant Thai curry! Guernsey mushrooms for me and Guernsey lobster for Steve. Absolutely delicious!!
Steve had promised that this morning he would go to the bakery and purchase our breakfast – croissant for him and almond croissant for me! When he returned we discovered that the almond croissants here (maybe because of the different name they had) did not have the type of filling I was expecting but something more like good old crème Anglais. Being the wonderful husband that he is he swapped his plain croissant and suffered the custardy one – he didn’t find it unpleasant which only goes to prove that there wasn’t a lot of almond involved as he doesn’t like marzipan at all. It definitely confirms that for the best almond croissants you have to go the Sainsburys Local in Lancaster – opposite The Penny Street Bridge Hotel, Steve’s bribe for going into work for a couple of hours on a weekend morning!
After breakfast we decided to take a walk along the coastal footpath to the other part of the town – the casino area. This wasn’t too strenuous but a bit uppy downy, some shady areas and some exquisite views. We stopped again at a small supermarket for some beer for lunch and then another bakery for a ‘pain’ (slightly larger than a baguette which toasts very well on the second day). Another wonderful lunch of Roquefort cheese for me and Coulommiers for Steve with a small bottle of French beer each – see I can get into this French food sometimes!! Tea tonight is going to be barbecue chicken and noodles for Steve and I have attempted to marinade some vegetables in the same barbecue seasoning. The recipe we use is a Simon Rimmer one for BBQ spare ribs, which we have used on numerous occasions for chicken for the both of us (breast for me, thighs for Steve) which I used to thoroughly enjoy, but as I no longer eat chicken it is one of the dishes I have missed when cooking it for Steve – so here’s hoping it works!!
Being surrounded by sea on an idyllic island in the Channel has given us the opportunity to try some “living off the land/sea”. With its crystal clear waters Guernsey’s micro-climate gives a bountiful supply of food for free (as long as you’ve got the time and patience!) So going through all four seasons here has been both interesting and exciting. It has ignited our passion for both foraging and feeding. So this post is an example of some of the recipes that we have managed to cobble together from recipes and experimentation with the available resources.
Any recipes not written here are available on our Recipes page.
Baked Pollock Head. An interesting Steve-only meal!! Following Hugh Fearnley Whittingstall’s recipe and a leap of faith! He did remove the meat before bringing the dish to the table – thankfully! Although the eye rolling around was slightly off-putting!
Pasta with Chestnut Pesto. After roasting and then storing in the freezer, we finally plucked up the courage to use our chestnuts and thought a nice simple pesto would be a good choice. It worked extremely well. Roasted chestnuts, basil, olive oil, parmesan, garlic, lemon juice – all whizzied together. Add to cooked pasta of your choice, mix well, serve and eat!
Devilled Spider Crab. Won’t win any prizes in a beauty contest but tastes wonderful (says Steve).
Lobster Foo Yung. This recipe will be included in Steve’s 101 ways to cook with lobster!
Limpets In Garlic Butter. This recipe is very similar to the first time Steve ate snails in France and is just as good. However, with only one person eating it, no kissing allowed!
Grey Mullet is considered a dirty fish due to the fact that it is vegetarian. For those with a sensitive nose/stomach it does smell when first caught and cleaned but within twenty four hours you wouldn’t know you had fish on board. It is also notoriously difficult to catch as it has very soft lips and does not take a baited hook readily. However, crust-on white bread with a very small hook and lots of patience works. The biggest fish landed to date – 4lb!
Baked Tandoori Mullet. Using our normal tandoori recipe, the mullet tasted just as good as seabass.
Cured Grey Mullet. With a nice sized fish, remove the scales (the size of adult fingernails), remove the two fillets and de-bone and cure using a 50:50 salt and sugar mix. Place fillets in the mix, flesh together ensuring a good coverage of the cure in between, wrap tightly in greaseproof paper then clingfilm. Refrigerate in an airtight container for three days (depending on the thickness of the fillets), turning every twenty four hours. After the three days rinse well and pat dry. The fish can then be eaten as is or used in other dishes.
Grey Mullet Ceviche. Rehydrate the previously cured mullet by soaking in water for approximately 2 hours, changing the water at least once. Slice the flesh as thinly as you would smoked salmon, then marinade with onions, white wine vinegar, lime juice and sugar for two hours, stirring occasionally. Surprisingly the mullet didn’t smell but the onions did!!
Poor Cod Ceviche. An unknown visitor to Steve’s lobster pot meant online searches to discover what type of fish he was. It turned out (as expected) to be a member of the cod family and was treated culinarily as such. One fillet was made into ceviche and the other was simply pan-fried with a dusting of flour. The skin was removed post cooking as it didn’t crisp well enough to eat.
Lobster Steamed Buns. Tastes amazing, could look better! I know that I am using the wrong flour so it is not white and I think I am rolling my dough a bit too thin!!
Marinated Squid. Yet another unusual visitor to Steve’s pot! Watching him cleaning it in a white tee-shirt gave me palpitations but amazingly the ink did not migrate to his shirt! His fingernails took days to look clean again after though!
Potted Winkles. When his pot wasn’t providing enough entertainment, off he wandered to the beach with bucket in hand returning with a couple of pints of winkles. He then subsequently boiled them and sat outside, after stealing my curved sewing needle, for the next two hours removing the flesh and the toenail flap whilst deciding what to do with them.
Souffléd Spider Crab Quiche. Yet another variation of quiche using spider crab and horseradish.
Pollock Fishy Sandwich. This is the only fish recipe I have actually eaten. Battered pollock fillets in buttered crappy sliced white bread – delicious!
Butternut Squash Risotto. I absolutely love making risotto, I find it very therapeutic and will quite happily stand stirring for as long as it takes just as long as the boat is not too rocky or rolly!
Tofu & Mushroom Stir-Fry. In one of our trips to the charity shops for books and DVDs we came across ‘Natural Alternatives to HRT Cookbook’ by Marilyn Glenville and, considering my age and temperament at the moment, Steve thought it prudent to purchase it. A very informative read and some interesting recipes. This was our first attempt and worked fairly well but I am still not a big fan of the texture of tofu!
The weather has affected my ability to write over the last few months – I find it difficult to focus when the boat is bouncing around so here is a little look back at the last couple of months!
My mum decided to visit back in November! Not used to checking the forecast she could probably not have chosen a worse week!! We met her at the airport and took the long bus ride back, so she could see some of the island. This sort of backfired as the rain didn’t allow us to see much. As we got off the bus the rain got heavier, which inevitably meant by the time we got to the marina we were all soaked! It was pretty much low-tide, which meant a very steep descent down the ramp and it wasn’t until we reached the bottom of the ramp that mum suddenly realised the enormity of getting on board a boat in wet and windy conditions in near darkness. She appeared to freeze and I must admit that I thought she was going to turn straight around and leave. There were no major issues getting on board, so it was on with the heating and off with the wet clothes and on with the dry! Unfortunately mum’s bag hadn’t faired too well in the rain so in a “first” for her she ended up in a pair of warm joggers and fluffy heat holder socks!! Surprisingly, she declined the cup of tea and gratefully accepted the tumbler of whisky!!
We had thought that most of the tourist attractions would still be open but soon discovered this was not the case. Mum fancied going across to Sark so we looked at the boat trip details. The boats were still running but being tide dependent it meant we had one chance. Unfortunately this one chance coincided with the worst forecast of the week so we decided Sark would have to wait. We did manage a few walks out and around the marina and across to L’Ancresse and down to Bordeaux Harbour and mum managed to take some pretty good photos of sunny skies and crashing waves! One attraction that was still open was La Vallette Underground Museum in St Peter Port so mum and I spent a couple of hours going round that – really interesting and definitely worth a visit.
Up Close And Personal With A Beaucette Resident
A Beautiful Day?
Longer Legs Required!
Prepared For The Weather
I have managed to avoid mentioning just how bad the wind was. Looking back at the photos it looked like we had some lovely weather, but at the time there was an awful lot of wind. I think mum coped remarkably well, although there were times she felt she was going to fall out of bed and was worried that we might sink – the creaking and groaning of the ropes did nothing to allay her fears! She also coped with my love of rugby. One day I think I made her watch one rugby league match (it was the world cup!) and then two Autumn International Rugby Union matches. She even seemed to understand some of it!!
Steve was a little disappointed with her as he thought she would want to enjoy lobster dishes every day along with him but she’s not a huge fan! She also had to suffer some vegetarian dishes but I think she enjoyed the butternut squash risotto!
It was really good to have a visitor but I don’t think she’ll be rushing back – at least not until the weather is much, much better!
After having written about Steve’s science project last time, we have come to the conclusion that lobsters can, in fact, read and are active online. His lobster catching has become somewhat erratic, I keep saying that it must be because of the weather but Steve is convinced they have signed up to the blog and would follow us on Facebook, if we were on there!!
Having planned our Christmas trip home, we had to empty the freezer before we left, so Steve was eating his way through his supply of lobster and fish. I had to be the bad guy and told him that he had to stop fishing for the last week. He reluctantly agreed but as we all know Steve gets bored so he broke our agreement and got his rods out again. He managed to catch a wrasse very quickly and returned it as there weren’t enough days left for it to be eaten before we had to leave. That same day, after lunch, he decided to continue fishing whilst I had my mandatory afternoon kip. However, after only a few minutes in bed, I heard a load of banging and crashing and wondered whether he had managed to fall overboard so got up to check on him and looked out the window to see him fighting with a rather large haddock. I did take a photo for him as proof of catch (very generous of me I thought) as I was adamant that he couldn’t keep it. It looks like I have to forbid him to keep any fish for him to catch any!!
We had a very good Christmas break with plenty of great food and company, thanks to our hosts Sean and Laura, mum and Mac and Steve’s mum and dad and our personal taxi driver Alex! The only blemish on the whole trip was the weather for the trip back!
We had been keeping an eye on the forecast and I was starting to worry as things weren’t looking good for our return journey on 30th. We got a message from Condor on the Friday afternoon to advise that our ferry had been postponed until the evening. I suppose we were lucky that we had decided to travel on the Clipper as the Liberation (the faster trip from Poole) was cancelled for several days.
Fortunately, this time, the temperature in the quiet lounge area was fine but the captain’s announcement of “Welcome aboard, it’s going to be pretty awful, 50 knot winds and 5m swell so there may be some pitching and rolling” didn’t bode well!! With Stugeron to hand and decent food to eat I was feeling relatively confident and even had a couple of vodka and cokes. But unfortunately I had been wishful-thinking. My temperature started rising and I felt the need to lie down so Steve made me a “bed” on the floor. I may have fallen asleep for a short time but woke with the urge to throw up and I am extremely disappointed and embarrassed to say that I managed to throw up an awful lot, even managing some projectile vomiting. Steve would probably have liked the temperature a bit higher as he had to remove his jumper and wash off the sleeve. After emptying the entire contents of my stomach I didn’t move from my bed for the rest of the night – plenty of pitching and rolling, water spraying over the windows, a poor dog in the hold somewhere yelping and crying and some very unusual boat noises – disconcerting at times! I was extremely pleased when we arrived in St Peter Port. As for Steve, he had no problem with the boat motion and was a very competent and able nurse – thank you xx
The weather (well, the wind mainly) hasn’t improved greatly since then we seem to get a few nice days interspersed with several grotty ones. With our position in the marina, Shearmyste tends to cope best with westerly winds but manages fairly well with most directions. There is one particular point, somewhere between north-westerly and north-north-westerly where we get a lot of resonance through the forestay but fortunately, so far, we haven’t had that for too long. Northerlies push us off the pontoon, making getting on and off more interesting and southerlies push us on – this has been a little weird as the pontoon suddenly becomes a lot closer than expected when getting off!! The worst direction for us is an easterly. Due to our proximity to the marina entrance big easterly winds with big easterly waves would be the absolute worst but fortunately, so far, we have not had to deal with that!
Looking forward, we are planning this summer’s trip and it looks likely that we will be heading back to France especially as Steve has missed his attempts at communicating in another language. This has become quite apparent recently as he has found a fellow chess enthusiast – Bogdan. Bogdan comes from Poland and doesn’t speak very much English – which isn’t much of an issue whilst playing chess. However, it is very entertaining to sit and watch/listen to Steve slipping into French when talking to Bogdan! It certainly proves that Steve learnt more French than he thought during our 10 months there!!
Well, what have we been up to in the month since returning from our “holiday”?
Steve has decided to commission the freezer as he cannot keep up with the quantity of lobster and fish that he has been able to catch! We made this decision before heading back to the U.K., so immediately on our return we switched it on! I am quite pleased about this as it means I can now have ice-cream and frozen peas! A Chinese-style mushroom curry is much enhanced by frozen peas!!
On our first shopping trip on our return, Steve bought himself a large piece of gammon and a pack of Lincolnshire sausages. So far he has eaten half the sausages and not even a third of the gammon – thank goodness we put the freezer on!
Jam On Toast
We have been foraging – as previously mentioned we have made blackberry jam/jelly and apple chutney but have now also made haw jelly. This is not a spreadable jelly but more like an “adult sweet”. The book where we got the recipe from suggests serving it with a coffee. (Thanks for the book, Caroline!) The texture is pretty much like American Hard Gums and the flavour is really interesting, almost savoury but fragrant. Steve decided to try and turn some into haw vodka by adding some of the jelly to a small bottle of vodka. The jelly is still dissolving in the vodka but it has taken on a pinkish hue and when you open the bottle it smells like a very strong whisky – tastes pretty good, all the same!!
As many of you are no doubt aware, my tipple of choice is vodka and coke and I tend to get through rather a lot of coke, so before we left Hull we purchased a Sodastream to save the extra weight of two litre coke bottles on shopping trips. This has served us well so far, the gas cylinders and concentrate are easy to find in England and France; however once we arrived here in Guernsey we were struggling to find it anywhere. Fortunately we managed to find this wonderful store called Aladdin’s Cave, probably ½ – ¾ hour cycle away that stocks it, so every so often we (or Steve on his own) make our way to pick some up. One particular return trip is memorable as Steve very nearly became a hood ornament for a shiny black Range Rover. There is a one-way road with a designated cycle lane in the opposite direction and we were busy cycling along. Coming up to a junction with the traffic light on red, we were slowing, ready to stop when this Range Rover started to pull out of a driveway. Somehow Steve just managed to stop in time, with me very nearly crashing into the back of him! The poor lady driver was extremely shocked and so apologetic it was quite funny – especially as it could all have turned out so differently! She had obviously checked for cars coming from her left but forgot about the possibility of cyclists using the cycle lane!
Back to our (or should I say, Steve’s) main activity. Since returning on 20th September and re-baiting his pot that day, he has caught:
Lobster – 30 (8 returned)
Wrasse – 7
Brown Crab – 4 (3 returned)
Spider Crab – 3 (2 returned)
Pollock – 1
Haddock – 2
The biggest lobster he has caught so far weighed in at 1.4kg and took a lot of cooling down so that he was dopey enough for Steve to squeeze him into the pan!
Just About Fits
Bigger Than The Board
Surprisingly Steve kept up his science project of recording his catch and has come to the following conclusion:
Start with some going off gammon, a lobster will usually take the bait within 24 hours; use that lobster head as bait and within 24 hours (but sometimes as short as 6) a wrasse is caught. The wrasse bones will then take approximately 48 hours to catch another lobster and the cycle continues with the occasional white fish getting in on the action.
As I am sure we have said before Steve is allergic to crab. However, after catching a number of spider crab he decided to play “Russian Roulette” and risk trying one as he had only ever previously eaten brown crab. After taking inspiration from a devilled spider crab recipe he found, he created his own version, using the sauce from his mummy’s devilled kidney recipe. After freezing, killing, cooking and dressing the spider crab, he was then baked in the sauce in his shell in the oven. The next 24 hours would be critical for Steve!! Surprisingly, he suffered no ill effects at all and is absolutely delighted that he is able to eat any more spider crabs that he catches, even though they are far more fiddly to deal with than lobster.
Freshly Cooked Spider Crab
Devilled Spider Crab
The pollock he caught was huge (2kg)! He didn’t quite fit in the fridge (he had a bit of a bow!) and even though he had been killed and gutted I found it quite unnerving to open the fridge door and see his tail flapping up and down. We haven’t eaten him yet; he has been filleted and is now waiting in the freezer for a non-windy day for his battering!! Steve has also kept the head as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall has a recipe for Baked Pollock Head – I can’t wait for that day to come, I think I might eat elsewhere!!
We have celebrated yet another wedding anniversary (31 years!) and decided to go for a nice walk along the coast towards Pembroke beach. Steve even remembered to take his wallet so we could stop at the little kiosk at L’Ancresse for a coffee so we were a bit disappointed that it was closed when we got there with the possibility that it may be closed permanently. We thought we would continue to Pembroke and were sure we would be able to find a drink there. The Beach House (bar/restaurant place) looked pretty closed when we passed it on our way to the other little kiosk, which was also closed. However as we walked back past The Beach House we could see people inside and a worker sorting out the outside tables so Steve went in (leaving me outside as I would have melted going inside!) and returned with his cup of coffee and that was all!?! I was a little dumbfounded (!) and it wasn’t until he sat down with his coffee that he realised for the FIRST TIME EVER he had bought something for himself and nothing for me! Happy anniversary, darling!! (I did have a bottle of water that we had brought with us so I wasn’t going to die of thirst!!) After he finished his enjoyable coffee we set off again, across the common this time and for some reason I had my “fungi-eye” in and kept spotting mushrooms! In the end I succumbed to his pressure and agreed to pick and potentially eat a large field mushroom. We also saw quite a few parasols but we didn’t pick any of them as I thought one at a time is enough for me! I had it as a very tasty mushroom curry!!
On Guernsey a lot of the restaurants take part in the “Tennerfest”. It is a way to try and encourage people to eat out during the quieter autumn months and runs from 1st October until about the middle of November. In the past most of the restaurants had £10 menus but most now are slightly more expensive but still cheaper than at other times. Several people had told us about it and then Mark and Helen asked if we would like to join them at the Beaucette Marina restaurant. Of course we said yes, although I was quite apprehensive as I do not always have the most successful restaurant experiences! Obviously to help keep costs down the restaurant has a special “Tennerfest” menu and doesn’t cook their usual menu, this then meant that there was only one vegetarian starter and main. For starter I chose the Cantaloupe Melon with seasonal fruits and berry sorbet, I found it a bit weird eating such a sweet starter but it was very nice! Good start! It took me a while to decide on the main; it was either Sautéed Mushrooms Garlic on Croute with rocket leaves, truffle oil and shavings of parmesan cheese or Beaucette Fish ‘N’ Chips, mushy peas, sauce tartare. After confirming there was no cream anywhere near the mushrooms I decided to go for that. As Steve had chosen the fish and chips I could nick a couple of his chips! When the food arrived I was pleasantly surprised with how mine looked and when I looked at Steve’s fish and chips I was really pleased I’d gone veggie! For the first time in a very long time I had a very nice meal in a restaurant! Steve was a bit disappointed with his as we cook better looking and tasting fish and chips on board! Dessert was Sticky Toffee Pudding for me and Ice Cream for Steve. Again my choice was definitely better especially when Steve passed me his ball of vanilla ice cream (after trying to fob me off with the chocolate one – not for me, that!) A thoroughly enjoyable evening, thanks to Mark and Helen for inviting us out!!
We have been watching the forecasts quite closely, what with Storm Ophelia and then Storm Brian! Brian, the storm they call Brian! (Apologies to Monty Python!) Storm Ophelia had no impact on us fortunately, but it looked like Brian might. It was good to see that the forecast was improving as one day it showed gusts of 75+ miles per hour but eventually it went down to 40-50 miles per hour. Winds were mostly from the south – southwest which, fortunately, is not a bad direction for us. The marina entrance faces east so any storm with any east in would be a major worry! It did provide some beautiful looking seas (seen from land obviously) and we made the small walk to Fort Doyle to watch the waves on both the north and east coasts of the island.
Yesterday morning, whilst pottering around inside the boat, there was a “twang” followed by a “thud”. Steve was busy in the galley and called up to me to ask what was wrong. At this point I was having a look out the window to see what had hit us (the sounds were definitely like a bird of some sort hitting the rigging and then the deck). Sadly there was a beautiful, healthy-looking pigeon except for the damaged wing and the pool of blood underneath him. We weren’t really sure what to do but, with the state of his wing, it didn’t look like he would be able to “shake himself off and fly away” so Steve went to see if he would be able to catch it. He was unsuccessful on his first attempt and suggested we should contact the RSPB or some other organisation. I was a little unsure as, after all, it was only a pigeon, but looked online and couldn’t find a contact number for RSPB on Guernsey so instead we called GSPCA – the Guernsey Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals. Steve spoke to them and they agreed to send out their ambulance. The pigeon had found himself a relatively safe position under one of the seats at the back of the boat by the time the ambulance arrived (approximately 20 minutes) and the GSPCA chap climbed on board with Steve on the pontoon to make sure the pigeon didn’t try to climb over the toe-rail and fall into the water. Within a matter of seconds the pigeon had been caught and was secure in the carrier the GSPCA man had brought with him. I doubt if we will find out whether he survives but if he doesn’t I think we did all we could to help him.
I can’t actually believe that we are now in October! Where has the time gone? We seem to have been quite busy however we don’t know what we’ve done!!
Steve has continued with his pot-fishing and has decided to try and turn it a bit “sciency” to see if he will be able to predict what he may or may not be able to cook for dinner.
We have finally had our first (and only) visitor – our first-born, Sean!! The day before his arrival, Steve commented that it would be ideal if he was able to catch a couple of lobsters to feed the protein-hungry child, but then thought that two in the same pot wasn’t a good idea as they would fight. However, that morning Steve lifted his pot to discover two lobsters, one being the largest he’d caught to date – weighing 1kg. Steve then started to worry whether it would actually fit in our biggest saucepan.
Sean came for a long weekend (and I think he found it a little bit of a culture shock as the pace of the life can’t be further from his usual London lifestyle). However, the restaurant that is Shearmyste, may have made up for the other short-comings, including a lobster roll breakfast, made with homemade bread roll and freshly caught lobster. We did try to entertain him but our choices of entertainment were quite limited – generally either shark fishing with daddy (with son as bait) or snorkelling/swimming with mummy. Surprisingly he chose to go swimming with me – this then caused me to return to being the worried parent with small child at the beach. I did very little swimming as I was panicking that I couldn’t see where he was – it was like he was four years old again and not twenty-nine! It was absolutely brilliant to see him and we hope he will join us again!
One of the major jobs we had on our Job List but kept putting off was the coach-roof leak repairs. We had planned to replace some small sections to see if that would cure the leaks using the wood supplied at Christmas by Mac. Unfortunately this repair, although looking good, actually created other internal leaks. This meant that we could no longer put off the inevitable so, before starting to rip it off, Steve checked with the local timber merchant that they would be able to supply a hardwood. As the price wasn’t too eye-watering the job could commence. Steve was adamant that it would be a relatively easy job and take a maximum of five days. We have a large tarpaulin that would cover most of the roof and provide protection from any rain. What a mistake to make!! Without paying too much attention to the weather forecast he decided to start ripping off the old teak-faced plywood after removing the grab rails. Unfortunately the rain decided to come with a vengeance and the tarpaulin acted like an old frame tent and as we all know frame tents when touched from the inside leak like sieves. Removing the handrails had created an extra 24 holes and with the two large window openings no longer fully secure the rain came in. To make matters worse as the rain came in Steve was busy in the galley filleting a wrasse! I was running around grabbing buckets and towels and trying to catch as much rain in my hands as I could! Happy Days!!! Four or five buckets later we had been able to catch the majority of the water ingress. Once the rain abated Steve was more focussed on getting the job done. Once all the wood was up, it was time to fill all the holes (at least another 50 grub screws!) The wood would take two weeks to be delivered so we had that time to do all the prep work and this also pushed us to remove the teak under the sprayhood as this was in poor condition as well (but didn’t leak!)
The Start of Five Days’ Work
Another Bucket Please
When the wood arrived we fixed the centre sections of the panelling then we had to wait for a two day weather window as we knew we would be unable to complete the hatch areas in a single day. Our first planned start of this next section was going to be the Sunday/Monday following the Beaucette Marina BBQ on the Saturday. However, due to the free-flowing free beer and good company, Steve woke with a headache along with a large number of other marina berth holders! (As did I, however I took headache pills and neglected to tell Steve!!!) This caused a two day delay as more rain was forecast. We managed over the next ten days (in between the rain showers) to fit the remaining wood sections and seal and return the boat to a watertight state (ish). Unfortunately we were still experiencing leaks around the hatches, so more sealant was applied. We are now pleased to report that we are leak-free!!!!
The other debate whilst we were fitting the wood was how to finish it. Neither of us are keen on silvered hardwood so our options were oil or varnish. As we have not had a great amount of success with oiling, varnish was always going to be the preferred choice (for Steve especially, as varnishing always seems to be my job). We set up the tarpaulin to protect the newly varnished surfaces form our resident seagulls who like to deposit from the top of the mast, but this seemed to turn the space into a greenhouse and also happened to coincide with what felt like the three hottest days of the year! We managed to apply it over the three days and are extremely happy with the result.
Overall Steve’s five day job took from 26th June until 28th August – the longest five days I’ve ever heard of. Did he really earn a living as a project manager?
With Steve catching all this stuff (fish) that I don’t really like eating, his focus has widened to try to provide other foraged meals. The first foray was mushrooms. With a newly purchased book in hand off he went to return with the following items:
With a view that these would cooked and placed on my pizza that evening, Steve prepared the mushrooms and cooked them in a bit of garlic & butter. First I tried the fairy champignons, they slid down, slimy and tasteless – urgh. Then the field mushroom – which was pretty bland and finally the puffball – the worst of the lot – the texture of undercooked lamb fat – bleurgh. So I had tomato and pepper pizza instead!! This hasn’t stopped our foraging but has stopped me trying any more mushrooms so far – he is still working on me. So, on the island, non-fish based foraging has resulted in finding blackberries (which has renewed my love of homemade jam – without bits, sorry mum!), apples (spicy apple chutney), chestnuts (still to be eaten), wild garlic (our very first foray, back in April!), nasturtium flower heads and leaves (very peppery), wild onion and wild fennel. We are still searching for nut trees on the island but have been informed that there is a walnut tree within an hour’s cycle! We now have our eyes on the haws. Haw jelly is the next planned test.
Having received a call from our youngest, sometime in July, suggesting daddy might like to go to the rugby double-header as his birthday present (perhaps I should swap birthdays with him as it is more a present for me!!) we decided to make a “holiday” of it as this may be the only way to see our families as they don’t appear to want to travel to see us – or perhaps it’s just the sleeping on the boat putting them off! With the Southampton Boat Show also on in September we decided to arrive just in time for the rugby and leave just after the boat show. The most convenient route for us was to travel overnight on the Clipper, arriving in the early hours in Portsmouth and then take a train into London, stay with Sean and Laura for the weekend and then travel north to see my sister in Skegness and my brother in Burton on Trent and then return south to spend time with our parents before returning via Poole to Beaucette.
This gave us a deadline to work to, to finish the coach-roof and to reduce the contents of our fridge. Steve was reluctant to quit fishing, as he needs his twice daily fix of pulling his pot. We carefully planned our last ten days of meals, not accounting for any new arrivals. The lobster were obviously unaware of our intentions as in those last ten days Steve probably had lobster every day and also supplied three other boats with at least seven adult portions of lobster – even providing an evening of instruction on the best way (his) to dress one. This, in turn, added to our predicament as, after instructing, we were too late and too inebriated to bother to eat our smoked eel or Mediterranean veg quiches! We did end up leaving some cooked gammon behind in the fridge but Steve had decided to allow this to go off to use as his first bait on our return!
With our bags packed, off we trundled with our faithful trolley loaded, bus to the ferry and proceeded through Customs! This was the most lax customs we had ever seen, I’m sure they carry out more checks on the Isle of Wight ferries!! We hadn’t booked a cabin as there hadn’t been the option to do so online but had booked reclining seats in the quiet lounge (unbeknownst to us at the front of the boat). We had seats 3 and 4 – giving us a dual aspect view right at the pointy end! Leaving St Peter Port we were escorted by a large pod of dolphins (always makes any trip better!) The route was via Jersey to Portsmouth with a two hour stop in Jersey. Just before entering St Helier another pod of dolphins greeted us. The crossing itself was calm (fortunately) but the seats weren’t that comfortable so Steve took to sleeping on the floor. We were not as prepared as others, who appeared with mattresses and sleeping bags! We had booked a 10 o’clock train so we would have plenty of time to get to the train station and also find breakfast. As soon as Steve spotted the Sainsbury’s he promised me almond croissants (remembering back to Lancaster – best almond croissants ever!) Unfortunately we were half an hour before opening so had to wait outside on a bench, feeling like we looked like bag people. Steve returned with a pecan plait for me (a suitable alternative as they had no almond croissants!) and a plain croissant for himself. It was a really lovely train trip to London Victoria, passing Arundel Castle in all its glory although the train did get a little busy at Gatwick! Still, it was certainly better than going into Waterloo as they had issues with overrunning engineering works!! We finally arrived at Sean’s in the afternoon (23 hours after leaving the boat – compared to Sean’s four hour trip the other way by plane!!) and Alex arrived early evening. Chinese takeaway for tea! The following day’s plan was to leave Sean’s midmorning, grab some lunch with a view to getting to Twickenham in plenty of time for the first match kick off. Having navigated our way across the smoke we found a lovely little chip shop with a park opposite. Sitting down to eat our lunch we were joined by some very inquisitive and tame squirrels – who also enjoyed the chips! Probably not the best diet for them, but they looked pretty healthy!
The rugby was pretty good although Harlequins did lose. The first match was Saracens v Northampton and as we were sitting amongst a large number of Northampton fans, it was very entertaining as they well and truly got their arses kicked!! Fortunately (as I am not a big fan of Sarries), I didn’t make too much of it, which was just as well when we lost!!
As Melanie (my sister) failed to respond to phone call and voicemail we changed our plans and Alex drove us to Mac and Mum’s instead. We spent about a week there, foraging whilst walking Jake (the dog). Steve found hazelnuts, beech nuts, more mushrooms including chicken of the woods and an inedible bracket fungus. He roasted the hazelnuts – very tasty. The best smelling man in the world (brother-in-law Kevin) joined us for a few days and it was decided that we would take him back to Burton on Trent and meet up with David, Zoe and the kids for a pub lunch. Squeezing the five of us (and Jake) into Mac’s Mazda 3 was entertaining – we almost thought we’d have to put “granny” on the roof Griswald-style (National Lampoon’s Vacation), although David suggested we might look more like the Clampetts!?! Mac had put Steve onto his insurance so Steve got to drive a car for the first time in over a year – and a manual one at that! Mac finally managed to get rid of us by very kindly driving us to Steve’s parents, I think he did it to make sure we got there and didn’t reappear on his doorstep!
We planned a week with Steve’s parents as well. With the weather being good, we went for a relatively long walk one day and Steve found an apple tree a stone’s throw from his parent’s house. So he started climbing and picking. Steve’s mum thought we had been up to no good when we returned as I brushed the remnants of the tree off his back! Steve took his dad and a large bag back and they managed to pick 9lb of apples from a tree that his dad had no idea was there! Plenty of apple wine on the cards now.
Whilst we’d been at my mum’s, she’d mentioned that she and Mac were keen to get a map of the footpaths around the village and she wanted to ‘posh up’ her cake eating with some of those little cake forks – the ones with the little knife-like bit on one of the prongs, so this was in the back of our minds. As usual we found ourselves in the charity shops in Hythe and Steve spotted a map section in the Oxfam book shop. Amazingly, in there was the Ordnance Survey map covering Owslebury – result! Steve had spotted, whilst returning from his sisters, a large catering shop in Southampton so a plan was hatched. When the opportunity arose to go into Southampton, we got dropped off nearby and investigated the shop. The only suitable forks available came in a pack of twelve so we purchased those and packaged them up with the map and posted them. The next day I got a phone call thanking us, although mum did say we should have bought her bigger cake tins if we expect her to provide cake for twelve!
I’m not sure whether it was because he took over or was encouraged to take over but Steve cooked every other day at mum and Mac’s and every day at his mum’s (except one – the traditional pea fritter and chips or fish and chips night!!) I did do some things – I gave my mum a bread making lesson and we had homemade bread, rolls and pizza! We also had at least four crumbles there – different fruit each time (and requested by us!!) Steve made fish pie, devilled kidneys and toad in the hole for his parents. We also had fruit crumble with Steve’s mum and dad – we certainly overdid the puddings on this trip!
One of the most unusual things to happen, food wise, was that on the day we arrived at my mum’s she had made cheese scones. Now I haven’t had cheese scones in I don’t know how long and Steve wasn’t even sure if he liked them – funnily enough he did! That in itself wasn’t unusual, however the day we arrived at Steve’s mum’s she had also made cheese scones! What a coincidence!!
The boat show was very quiet. We went on the Monday but speaking to some of the exhibitors it hadn’t been any busier over the weekend. We had a good wander around and got the information we were after about possible berths for 2018, potentially on the southwest coast of England and a few bits we were after. A good tip: if you are going to the boat show and fancy a glass of wine at lunchtime visit the insurance brokers!!
Our return ferry was the faster Condor Liberation out of Poole. This should have taken 3 hours but was slightly delayed as, apparently, they made a mistake loading the cars and then because of tidal constraints we had to take a slightly different route, going through Big Russel instead of Little Russel. Again we were extremely lucky with our seats, getting a huge amount of legroom, right next to the duty free shop. Yet another smooth crossing – thank goodness! Arrived back at Shearmyste having had a very good break and fortunately Steve helped me put everything away before getting to his most important job – baiting and lowering his lobster pot!!
Having spent the first three weeks in Beaucette checking the weather for an appropriate weather window coinciding with a favourable tide time, we did quite a lot of soul searching and wondering just what it was we were doing. Whenever we saw Ricky (the marina manager) and advised that we would be staying a bit longer, his response was: “stay as long as you want”. I believe this sowed a little seed in Steve’s head and made us face up to some difficult questions – What are we doing? What do we want out of this life?
It felt like all we seemed to do was watch the weather, looking for the opportunity to move to another marina to do the same thing again there – relax, drink and people watch. Neither of us particularly enjoys the sailing side of things but absolutely couldn’t go back to living in bricks and mortar. Steve felt that he wanted to put down some tentative roots – in fact it appears that we are not the gipsy/roaming types we thought we were after all!
Why is Guernsey the right choice for us?
The people are amazingly friendly. When we have been out and about, looking blankly at our map of the island, people stop (whether on foot or in their vehicles) and offer assistance
Steve can understand the locals
The ‘hills’ aren’t big
Honesty boxes are prevalent for local produce
The marina is picturesque, gnarly (being an ex-quarry), entertaining during strong easterly winds with a good mix of friendly live-aboards
Great walks – as we are in probably the least populated part of the island where beach and cliff walks are plentiful
Even in hot weather, as we are a stone’s throw from the sea, it is at least 5 degrees cooler
Why is Guernsey a poor choice for us?
Wine at English prices
Bread selection is poor as there doesn’t appear to be any small bakeries on the island (only the supermarkets)
Haven’t managed to find an egg supplier yet (other than supermarkets)
Shower block/toilet trips are best planned to coincide with high tide (the ramps are a tad challenging at low water). This also applies to trailer shopping trips as the decline is quite impressive which could result in a runaway trailer!
After chatting with Sunil in the marina office and then Ricky, Steve returned to the boat with the figures for a year’s berth here! Could we do that? Should we do that? We could always do some sailing from here and return but it would mean that Steve could have his required roots and he would be able to find something, other than the boat and the weather, to occupy his time. This again caused more conversations and we agreed that it might be a good idea so Steve ‘paid up and looked happy’, but this then caused more issues!!
After having spent practically every day for the last year together (ok we did have one 24 hour period apart when he took off with a French man!) we were starting to realise that we have absolutely nothing at all in common. So after many hours discussing matters we have decided that it is in our best interests to follow our own particular dreams and go our separate ways.
Steve and friend
To be honest, it is not as bad as it sounds! We have both decided to return to our great loves. Steve’s love is food and cooking and being the hunter/gatherer type he decided that he would try his hand at fishing. He bought himself a tin of sardines and put them into his lobster pot and dropped that over the side of the boat. He didn’t have any luck for the first few days so decided to try the other side of the boat, closer to the pontoon. I think he had pretty much given up and was going to wash off the pot and put it away when he pulled it up and discovered a decent sized lobster inside. He was like a kid in a sweet shop, so excited!!! This was all the incentive he needed.
Surprisingly my love is for getting fit again. We have walked and cycled around some of the island and have discovered some lovely beaches – good enough to encourage me to “take the plunge”! So now I cycle the ten minutes to L’ancresse beach and spend some time splashing around in the water! When we first arrived we noticed a blackboard proclaiming “Bendy Beaucette Yoga”. I have wanted to try yoga and thought perhaps a small group here might be a good introduction – although I wasn’t sure if I would be confident enough to do something on my own. However, Steve encouraged me (or should that be, pushed me) to give it a try and so far I have been to two sessions and that combined with the swimming and cycling seems to have helped me with my intermittent back aches and has also resulted in a marked increase in my fitness level, such that on our most recent cycle ride together I had to brake whilst cycling behind Steve as he wasn’t going quick enough!
One particular cycle ride stands out in my memory – is this the unluckiest woman in the world? We had bought a picnic at the supermarket after visiting the largest car boot sale we’ve ever seen (well , at least ten cars!) and ended up at L’ancresse beach, sitting with a nice bottle of cider and some bread and cheese. The only other occupants of this part of the beach were a young family and then after a while a woman and her son stopped to chat with them. I suddenly heard a “thwack” and the standing woman fell to her knees. The poor lady had been hit by a stray golf ball. The fairway that the golfer was aiming for was at least 150 yards away. The man from the couple disappeared off and, according to the kids, was going to “go and tell off the golfer”. He returned shortly with two men – they had both hit their balls off course towards the beach so were unsure which one had actually hit her! Amazing, considering how much empty beach space there was, that one of them managed such a direct hit. Fortunately the lady had turned to reach her phone so it hit her on the side of the neck and not smack bang in the middle of her face. She was a bit dazed and shocked but I don’t believe she suffered any serious damage and the rather embarrassed golfers were extremely apologetic.
There have been some very large, beautiful yachts visiting here. At one stage we were one of the smaller ones, having been dwarfed by an Oyster 62, Hallberg Rassy 64 and a possible Contest 60ish. When I went to my first yoga session, inevitably I was asked which boat I was on so pointed Shearmyste out. Comments were made about Beaucette becoming a ‘Super Yacht Haven’ and I believe Shearmyste was included! Quite chuffed about that, although I already knew she didn’t look out of place amongst them!
The buses here are cheap (£1 per journey) so we have taken advantage of them and have been into St Peter Port (Town) a few times. You can also go all the way around the island and if you want to sit in the bus station for about 20 minutes that still only costs £1. We did the trip but broke our journey in Town. This did mean that our ‘round the island’ cost £2 but to be honest I think we would have quite happily paid at least £5 each. The nearest shops to the marina are at St Sampson which is about a 10-15 minute cycle away with a Co-op and an Iceland and there is an Alliance (Tesco) fairly close too. There are lots of small produce stands dotted around, so far we have purchased tomatoes, strawberries, cauliflower, new potatoes, cucumber and lettuce. As they all have honesty boxes it is necessary to make sure you have enough pound notes (yes I do mean notes!!)
Liberation Day back in May – we took the bus to St Peter Port, saw the parade and had a little mooch about. We walked past a lady who was the spitting image of Shane Spall (wife of actor Timothy Spall) and “star” of one of my favourite TV programmes – Somewhere at Sea where they sailed their Dutch barge around the UK. It is one of my go-to DVDs as they visited quite a few of the same places we have and I have noticed a lot of similarities in our relationships! I didn’t approach her as I thought it was inappropriate but when we got back to the boat I looked for her on Twitter and she had posted a photo of the life boats taken from the exact spot I had seen her! I am just amazed that she didn’t recognise me from my avid viewing!!!
Steve has now become quite a proficient fisherman. In his lobster pot he has managed to catch three lobsters (one too small to keep), a haddock, a brown crab and an eel. He took the dinghy out of the marina the other day and attached himself to one of the waiting buoys and caught himself two mackerel. I must admit that the only item I have eaten was a small portion of the haddock in a curry! I did try the first lobster but I really didn’t like it and I think Steve was quite pleased about that as he won’t have to share any!
Steve then turns from fisherman to chef, so far he has made:
Lobster with lime and caper butter served with coconut rice
Lobster fusilli with a lobster bisque sauce
Haddock jalfrezi with boiled rice (this was for me!!!!)
Crab and Haddock with a spicy noodle broth
Smoked mackerel on toast
Smoked mackerel quiche
As I write, the smoked eel is sitting in the fridge, excellent taste test results, no dish yet created! (Cooking time 45 minutes, preparation time a day and a half – so not your Jamie’s 15 minute meal!!) Recipes will appear on the Recipe Page!
Other food highlights have included, I’m sorry to say, yet another falafel based meal. I had made a rather tasty pea risotto and as is normal I’d made enough to feed an army! So we decided to use up the leftovers as arancini – mozzarella stuffed rice balls. Steve thought about putting breadcrumbs on the outside but then suggested using falafel mix – hence the creation of Falancini! Served on a spicy tomato sauce they were bloody lovely!!!